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Diners may feel lost in Artin’s Grill’s cavernous interior. Service can be spotty, and the building’s configuration is such that there are precious few windows to allow for viewing of the Bellagio-style fountains. Nevertheless, the food is quite solid and there is an attractive wine list and an equally attractive (though short) drink menu. Thankfully, one of the featured libations is the Gin Crush, a bracing combination of Tanqueray 10 gin, St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur (an herbacious French concoction blended from Sambucus or elderflower), bitters, fresh lemon and rosemary. The result is a good old-fashioned, ’50s style short cocktail made for slow sipping, the kind of well-made drink that satisfies one completely, as opposed to sugary creations. Gin cocktails were de rigueur back in the Age of the Martini, and here’s hoping they can stage a much-needed comeback as opposed to flavored vodkas and such.
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