Radio Gaga

Maybe he got tired of inhaling corks. Or maybe his liver joined a union and went on strike as he went from a sniff to a sip. At any rate, Dallas sommelier hotshot Daryl Beeson has cut back his involvement with Voltaire, a restaurant that has enough expensive wine to…

Cheesed

Dallas Texadelphia founder Tom Landis has a problem. It seems the original Texadelphia Philly cheese steak sandwich shop on Leonard Street is in the way of a boutique hotel that will allegedly go up on the property soon. “I think by summer there will be a 200-foot hole down there,”…

Time Bandits

Every once in a while the Burning Question crew selects a topic so straightforward that we pursue a few minutes of effortless research and spend the rest of the weekend bowled over in a drunken stupor, participating in events we vaguely remember, thanking those responsible for Miranda rights. But we…

Label-ese

In a moment of clarity, the very late Frank Zappa pointed out that “you can’t be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team or some nuclear weapons,” he continued, “but at the very least you…

Let’s Talk Fish

It looks like a stage-prop fish market instead of something designed to dress up a restaurant. One whole corner of the bar at Sea Grill is a sloping bin filled with crushed ice. Imbedded in the ice is an assortment of sea life. Paving one slope is a batch of…

Hash Over

Joseph Tillotson, owner of the Barley House, Eastside Grill and Muddy Waters, has just signed a lease for space at 1525 Main Street, one of the oldest (circa 1890s) buildings in Dallas’ central business district. There Tillotson plans to launch The Metropolitan, a two-story, 5,000-square-foot restaurant and bar. “We’re going…

You Say Potato

Other than a few odd moments of confrontation–Fred and Ginger bickering over pronunciation, Dan Quayle “correcting” a grade school kid’s spelling–the potato (sorry, Dan) enjoyed a relatively placid existence over the years. For example, through war and protest, boom and bust, the classic mashed potato recipe remained a dinner staple,…

Unalloyed Success

Steel is the super-hard result of a hellish fusion of iron with carbon. It’s a curious name for a restaurant that seeks to stand out from the crowd of “Asian fusion” offerings popping up like Rogaine fuzz across the Dallas area. But then again, the name wasn’t selected to serve…

Tarnished Silver

The word that invades the mind after visiting The Silver Room is disparity–or maybe it’s dissonance. This dynamic starts with the room itself, which started out as the defunct 8.0 in the Quadrangle and ended up as 8.0 bereft of charm, or maybe interior decorating. The Silver Room simultaneously flirts…

The Color of Money

Denny’s hasn’t changed much, according to Bridgette Goode. Back in 1991, 18 members of a black youth group attending a civil-rights conference in San Jose, California, tried to enter a Denny’s restaurant. The staff asked them to pay in advance for food service and to pay a cover charge–must have…

They Got Music

Pet rocks died, as all pets eventually do–especially when they are just inanimate hunks of stone. Mood rings turned a permanent, dismal mauve. Leg warmers unraveled. The XFL, well, who really cares? All fads wind up their brief and pointless lives in landfills or antique malls or syndicated television. But…

Mixed Blessings

Somehow, it’s incongruous to call a place serving American bulk cuisine levitated with Southwestern brushes The Abbey Texas Café. After all, abbeys were monasteries, and monasticism entails asceticism, or the practice of disciplined self-denial. This torment may include silence, a prohibition against private property, an embracing of bodily discomfort, poverty,…

AquaKnixed

Fishbowl, that hip “Sixties pan-Asian” noodle-wok-sushi works that subsumed the lounge once soldered to AquaKnox, the posh sea-flesh parlor created by chef Stephan Pyles and Michael Cox, has now swallowed AquaKnox itself. Whole. AquaKnox owner Carlson Restaurants Worldwide shuttered the restaurant earlier this month and is in the process of…

The Pub’s the Thing

St. Patrick supposedly drove the snakes from Ireland many centuries ago. Naturally, Americans celebrate his feat by descending on bars and destroying brain cells en masse. It all makes sense, somehow. To do it up right, however, many celebrants spend part of the holiday in a pub. Of course, Dallas-area…

Suze Does

If there is one thing Suze is about, it’s romance. Not the frilly, why-does- everything-smell- like-a- lady’s-underwear- drawer kind of romance, but the quaint, cozy, Bob Villa rusticity kind. Suze is a quietly austere, softly lit, thoughtful sort of love story, the kind that lets you fill in the blanks…

Buttered Bread

After two years of serving pancakes, omelets, cheeseburgers, meat loaf, and liver and onions, Buttermilk Café, that old-style diner that steakhouse mogul Dale Wamstad launched with the III Forks Trading Post months after III Forks, has blown out its pilot light. “We don’t ever want to hear the word breakfast…

Tip Gyp

Troy Tilley, a bartender at Sneaky Pete’s in Lewisville, states flatly that patrons running a tab should pay a tip of 20 percent of the tab. Of course, he prefers that they pay cash. “Your higher-paying bar positions are when people buy one drink at a time,” he says. “They…

Maître Deals

Does tipping the maÎtre d’ get you a better table? It works on television. Slip the maitre d’ a 20–or even some advice on cheap long-distance service–and voilà, you skip ahead 10 places in line, ahead of the Vanderbilts, the Astors, and the Modanos. Servers part and bow in servile…

Scratch Shot

Carson’s Palace is literally a megaplex: a huge adult entertainment game room with enough television screens (between 28 and 32, depending on which part of the press kit you read) to mush the brains of the entire population of Flower Mound. Carson’s not only sports a coat of arms with…

Flushed

The amazing thing about Phil Romano’s abrupt move to ice We Oui was not that he did it so fast, but that he did it at all. Most operators, especially those with a creative streak as exuberant as Romano’s, tend to get so personally involved with their chef d’oeuvres that…

Cloudy Issue

When German scientists discovered a direct link between smoking and cancer many years ago, anti-smoking advocate Adolf Hitler was determined to ban cigarettes from the Third Reich. Yet even Hitler, an absolute dictator willing to murder millions, couldn’t pass anti-smoking laws. What hope, then, does state Rep. Glen Maxey have…

Fast Foods

George Bernard Shaw was an atheist, yet he observed Lent. Don’t scoff. He believed Lent a perfect occasion “for giving up reading other people’s books.” Every year at this time–between Ash Wednesday, when people empty ashtrays onto their foreheads, to Easter, when many Americans embark on their annual trek to…