Blah Blah Blah

Pub is a word derived from the term “public house,” which is “an establishment licensed to sell alcoholic drinks for consumption on the premises and often serving meals as well,” according to Webster’s. It’s touching to consider that proprietors who make their living with liquor licenses are so concerned about…

Grotto Lotto

Peter Tarantino, who with the help of his brothers tried to plant his sophisticated brand of Mediterranean cuisine near Fair Park with Tarantino’s before that project was undone by a backed-up and bubbling sewer line, is champing at the bit to get CAVA launched. CAVA is Tarantino’s traditional Spanish restaurant,…

Vintage Finds

Who doesn’t get a bit choked up when the first strains of “Impossible Dream” rise up during a production of Man of La Mancha? There’s just something compelling about those who struggle–vainly–toward the summit where greatness awaits. Evel Knievel completed hundreds of risky motorcycle jumps, but we remember him for…

Fish Not Foul

Shannon Wynne, reformed night crawler extraordinaire and founder of such long-gone nightclubs as Fast and Cool and the “o” haunts (Nostromo, Rocko, Tango and Mexico), once had an uncanny touch for detecting the faint pulse in Dallas’ mediocre nightlife. But who would have thought Wynne also possessed an uncanny prescience…

Beer Me

There’s a prominent sign on the wall in the rest room foyer at Duke’s Original Road House. “Coming soon,” it reads, “brand new, bigger, better restrooms just for you.” Now it may seem strange to generate excitement by pre-announcing an impending john remodel, as you might an upcoming Rolling Stones…

Rosestud

Corporate public relations often highlight the unending sweaty grunt work involved in key personnel search and acquisition missions. Makes for good copy. That’s why Rosewood Hotels & Resorts no doubt called attention to its “lengthy search” when it announced it had come upon a replacement for Jeff Moschetti (now at…

Kernel Flips

According to the cafe’s menu, a Zaguán “is the elaborate entry-passage in the grand old colonial homes of Venezuela, Spain and Colombia.” This entryway is carefully carpeted with a pebble-stone mosaic, it adds. Indeed, the motto for this cafe is “a mosaic of tastes.” And Zaguán is that, as varied…

Holy Hole

“Hole in the wall” is a sort of dining Holy Grail; the object of a fervent quest for hidden culinary riches dressed up like a Hee Haw extra. Like Rousseau’s noble savage, the true hole in the wall glimmers with irresistible romance and beats with the myth of primeval superiority…

Democracy Inaction

Politicians have it easy. Television “journalists” such as Larry King and Katie Couric toss them softball questions, and no one expects an accurate response. Radicals like Rush and G. Gordon Liddy and Oliver North dominate the supposedly liberal airwaves, limiting discourse to grunts of approval or disdain. Where 30 years…

Fly Cook

Celebrity chef Stephan Pyles, who was recently tapped by Hotel ZaZa to oversee the development of its restaurant Dragonfly (a beast that feasts in-flight), has grabbed Crescent Court Executive Chef Jeff Moschetti to take hold of the kitchen. The California Culinary Academy graduate, who has also held positions at The…

Look at Her

“Miss America ate here.” This is a swell publicity claim for any restaurant, especially one planted among the sticks in a tiny town named for an itty-bitty tree with a fungus problem. Miss America combines all the things that make for good promo sizzle: beauty, talent and sex–or the lack…

Lobster Crypt

Sometimes fresh seafood just isn’t enough to keep a restaurant afloat, even when the main course is dressed like a cowboy and the joint’s interior looks as if it were pilfered from a Sesame Street set. At least that’s what Phil Romano (Macaroni Grill, Eatzi’s, Fuddruckers, Cozymel’s) may think about…

Gender Specifics

The French have a saying, “vive la difference,” which basically means “we surrender” but is often translated as a celebration of the dissimilarities among people and cultures. Americans, for some reason, strive to eliminate perceived flaws and unique qualities from our consciousnesses. Accordingly, we try everything from plastic surgery to…

Stayin’ Alive

At this point on the dining timeline, Avanti Ristorante is perhaps better known for its longevity than its food. After all, more than a handful of restaurants execute its brand of Nor-Ital Mediterranean fare, often with better results. But Avanti has been doing it for 14 years; that’s a near…

Eschewing the Fat

Poor Caesar Barber. For the past 27 years, the cumbersome maintenance worker from New York tried only to meander harmlessly through life. But a gang of marketing toughs from McDonald’s and Burger King and other fast-food chains pummeled him daily with slogans. Teen-age hoodlums threatened to “super size” his orders…

Mud Stuck

Not long ago, Mud Bugs Cajun Café was known as the House of Voodoo, but the name was jettisoned swiftly, not long after it opened. You could see the scraps of plywood stacked in the rear from which the Mud Bugs signs were cut, painted orange and posted on the…

Italian Sleeper

Venezia is a slice of institutional cafeteria ambiance done up in Italian red and green, with a heavy emphasis on the green. It has a counter up front and a dining room with tables covered in green and white checked tablecloths. An awning hangs over the semi-open kitchen with Christmas…

Month, Week, Daze

National prune breakfast month was in January. National egg salad week was April 12-16. National roast suckling pig day is December 18. Every scrap of kitchen fodder has a day or month devoted to it, from bicarbonate of soda (December 30) to cheese balls (April 17). So why shouldn’t Texas…

Weathered Wrangler

A tornado abruptly changed the course for Reata, the popular Fort Worth “cowboy cuisine” restaurant. In March 2000, the furious whirl ripped through Fort Worth, popping the windows out of the restaurant perched on the 35th floor of the Bank One Tower and flinging its furniture more than a mile…

Cow Cash

A recent article on the Web titled “Pro Fishing is a Cash Cow” by James Swan, a media columnist for North American Hunter magazine, points out that there are more than 35 million sport fishermen (and fisherwomen?) in the United States, a number that trumps the golfer and tennis racketeer…

Election Results

Most of us understand the concept of evil. We know from repeated prompting, for example, that a man who controls a nuclear arsenal, backs out of international accords, achieves power through dubious means and threatens other nations represents evil without question. Yet more than half of the voting population approves…

Go Go

The noodle house was supposed to conquer the Dallas restaurant front, dotting it with shanties of twisting and slurping instead of fortresses of carving and chewing. Food pundits pointed to London and New York and Los Angeles, where noodle houses proliferate, and pronounced Dallas fit to breach this clique of…