The Sweaty Hereafter

Weird how an entertainment complex centered on the afterlife is having such a hard time with the birthing part of the life cycle. But the on-again, delayed-again (mostly because of electrical transformer glitches) Purgatory on Main Street near Interstate 45 is cocked to shoot from the chute in the August/September…

Big Shucking Deal

Yeah, we downed dozens upon dozens of oysters while researching this week’s topic. Now we’re certain to die–this being a month with no r–and horny as hell. And yeah, we know those are just myths. No scientific evidence exists tying shellfish consumption to increased libido. Perhaps the story earned credibility…

Zilch

The aroma of wood burning grills. The light bouncing from brightly colored glass. An atmosphere that’s both warm and sleek. A memorable experience, from A to Z. Zolon. This is the promo prose about Zolon, “an everyday bistro,” posted on the restaurant’s Web site. The words are crisp and snappy,…

Let’s Make a Deal

All that’s left is the fat lady’s aria. Word has been pinballing around town and cyberspace for months that restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa, who operates Matsuhisa in Los Angeles and Nobu in New York as well as restaurants in London, Tokyo, Aspen, Las Vegas and Malibu, is close to slipping a…

Heathen Eating

Not far from the bass-boat-riven waters of Lake Ray Hubbard is Heath. Heath is a town of roads that curl and hog-leg through a sprawl of open grasses and sod fields buckled together by occasional subdivisions of homes bearing monstrous footprints and modest circa 1950s and ’60s ranch houses on…

Moving On

Funny how what is gritty urban charm for some is a fly in the foie gras for others. Just take Deep Ellum’s critically acclaimed Standard 2706 restaurant on Elm Street, which chef/owner Tim Byres shut down on Father’s Day. “We always tried to give our customers exactly what they wanted,”…

Innards and Outs

We confess: This week’s Burning Question reached us about, oh, eight months ago. Good idea, we thought at the time–but then we deleted it from our in-box by mistake. Fortunately, our editor kept a backup copy. Too bad he sent it the day our laptop fell from a second-story window,…

Velvet Boot

Il Mulino is the General George S. Patton of restaurants. Not because it is violently audacious or prances through Palermo and Messina–although it does flaunt langoustines from Sardinia–but because it is rife with a paradoxical snarl of highly calculated mannerisms and crudely whittled elegance bordering on caricature. Patton could be…

The Basso Bounce

Chef Tony Gardizi is one of those wandering kitchen types. He’s piloted spatulas and whips at the Riviera, J. Pier in Terrell and the defunct Bali Bar, among others. Now he is executive chef of Guthrie’s, a restaurant fashioned in the former Rooster space by chef William Guthrie, who founded…

Feed the Need

Dallas cares. It really does. Voters approved $3 million to fund an assistance center for the homeless. The city just can’t decide where to put the new facility, that’s all. In January, city officials asked organizations intent on feeding the hungry to confine their activities to the Day Resource Center,…

Comfort Loaf

This is what former New York Times food editor Raymond Sokolov has to say about meat loaf: Meat loaf…is a kind of joke. In fact, I can think of two funny things about meat loaf right off the top of my head. One is an off-color parting wish you have…

A Manner of Drinking

Etiquette is a social minefield. Codes of conduct exist for just about every occasion in every subculture. At local bars, twentysomething guys know it’s unmanly to refuse a shot. You can’t really call yourself “Uptown” unless you belittle suburbanites (you know, those misguided people in comfortable, modern, inexpensive homes) on…

Trying Times

It used to be the Lighthouse Supper Club. The Lighthouse was a restaurant and bar on the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard. It aspired to be an old San Francisco-style dinner house. To that end, the restaurant included a lounge called “Club She.” Our Club She adventure included black hot…

Starring Roles

Nancy Nichols, D magazine’s restaurant critic, despises the use of stars to rate restaurants. “There’s too much time between reviews, and it’s too hard to keep consistency,” she explains. “Not the restaurant’s consistency, but the entity handing out the stars. ” The rest of us depend on a symbol of…

Suburban Slickers

Southlake has a big sky. There doesn’t seem to be much of a lake if you don’t count the water hazards at Timarron Country Club. And it isn’t really all that much south, at least from Dallas vantage points. But it does have a big sky. It also has intriguing…

Stein’s Online

Let’s pose a cosmic question: If you willingly jump among three jinxes, will they neutralize each other and spell fortune? Rick Stein seems to think so. Stein, former general manager of III Forks, has decided to thrust himself in the middle of a jinx trifecta: He’s opening a classic steak…

Pac Rim Rumba

Fusion, whether it’s in musical, culinary or thermonuclear idioms, is a tedious term. It’s a sigh stimulant, a drowse inducer, a word that was forged in a quest for succinctness but instead plopped us into the middle of a muddy mealy mouth. Think of how many menus, in one way…

Expecting

Jon Calabrese and Joe Hickey, the pair who spawned the twin venue Legal Grounds coffee bar (by day) and Savory restaurant (by night), are gestating triplets. In September, Calabrese and Hickey will launch Taste restaurant and State & Allen bar coupled with an urban market anchored by a common kitchen…

Tom Tom Croak

Tom Tom Noodle House recently debuted a low-carb menu whereby “every rice plate can be made low-carb by leaving out the rice,” kind of like low-carbing a baked potato by 86ing the spud. But rice-less rice plates weren’t enough to save the Preston Center location, which opened roughly a year…

The Hole Thing

Dallas has often been described as fickle, pretentious or something in between fickle and pretentious. We’re not certain about the correct word, but “Republican” seems to fit. People in this city simply find it difficult to break away from whichever pack they follow. Some won’t venture beyond LBJ, others refuse…

Avant-Gorge

It’s like Oz’s wizard before the curtain is pulled: This picture, anchored at the end of a foggy-gray arching hallway, is a huge head glowing bright green, floating on a wall, tufts of hair reaching up into the air manically like flames stoked with ether. In another room rests an…

Man, Myth and Shots

“I consider myself a tequila connoisseur,” says Agave Azul founder Zotico Reyes. “It’s the spirit of Mexico…the myth of it, the taste itself.” Reyes, a longtime Dallas-Fort Worth restaurant pro (La Margarita, Mi Cocina, Cozymel’s), has both Greek and Mexican heritage, which might explain his attraction to both the “spirit”…