On The Range: Fajitas

I made a rather startling discovery while continuing my quest into the origins of Tex-Mex. For some reason I had assumed fajitas were a California addition, perhaps because of their ready adoption in to the presumably healthier Cal-Mex lineup. But no–legend credits Ninfa’s in Houston, although according to Robb Walsh’s…

Pet Veev

If you haven’t wondered, as we have, about the latest medicine show fad to sweep this land of ours, brace yourself for a slew of acai berry cocktails. As pointed out in our Chewing The Fat column, acai (pronounced ah-sigh-ee) flounders in VeeV, a 60-proof, sweet clear spirit probably guaranteed…

10 Questions: James Neel

He wanted to be a chef since the age of six, when he would “surprise” his parents with self-taught recipes. Neel’s first professional role, however, was at the famous Ninfa’s in Houston–as a dishwasher.After working his way up to a chef’s apprentice role, he attended cooking school at Le Cordon…

Food For Thought 2.18.09

“When we talk about obesity, people like to plant the source of the issue on away-from-home dining. But that raised the thought in my mind: Is that really the source of things?. . . . What has happened in what we’ve been doing in our own homes over the years?”…

Chewing the Fat: Spilling The Bills

You probably remember how last summer’s painful gas prices set off a ripple effect, jacking the cost of everything else, including your groceries. Now that gas prices have crashed back to a mere inflated-enough-to-fatten-Exxon-execs-and-their-political-friends level, you’re probably still waiting for your grocery costs to follow suit–especially as every day brings…

Dude Food: Hunky’s

Hunky’s Hamburgers (Bishop Arts location)321 N. Bishop Ave.214-941-3322Dude Factor: 7, or “30th birthday” on a scale of 1 (65th birthday) to 10 (21st birthday)The hamburger is a staple of the dude diet. This wonderfully versatile sandwich can range from a simple 99-cent meat, bun and ketchup value-menu offering to double-digit-priced…

Squirreling Away For The Recession

In these deflating economic times, some of us here at the Observer have been doing our best to, oh, dole out less dough for lunch. Hell with stimulating the economy. One of us announced recently that she’d spent $72 on lunches in one week–and unemployment rates continued to climb.So lunch…

Brunching To The Max

Although it has added meal service incrementally yet steadily since its January 24 grand opening (which raised nearly $20,000 for the Dallas Children’s Advocacy Center, by the way), Maximo Cucina Mexicana & Margarita Lounge is set to plug in the last piece to its service puzzle this weekend. Beginning February…

10 Questions: Vincent McGrath

He’s worked some of the best cellars in the city, either as wine buyer, director or sommelier.These include stints at the Crescent and Pappas Bros., before he teamed up with chef Anthony Bombaci at Nana.Last month he took over sommelier reigns at West End’s Y.O. Ranch Steakhouse. Charged with building…

Food For Thought 2.17.09

“The burden is on the company to make sure they are complying with any local, state and federal regulations that apply to food manufacturing. Naturally, that’s not reassuring to the public. But we don’t have people driving up and down roads looking for places like this.” (Doug McBride of the…

Short Orders: Jaxx Steakhouse

Jaxx Steakhouse14925 Midway, Addison972-458-7888The venerable steakhouse or cafe or Mickey Mantle hangout is showing its age. Splotches from once-incessant cigarette smoke lends ‘character’ to the pressed tin ceiling, the warped tiles supporting eight weathered fans. If you squint, the place resembles Woolworth’s, circa 1930, with dark wood and rigid aisles.Jaxx…

How ‘Bout Them Knockers: Skillman Wok/Border Express

Skillman Wok18900 Dallas Parkway972-248-0808Promised delivery time: 40 minutesActual delivery time: 30 minutes (on the dot)The ScoreKnieval-like daring-do of ordering Tex-Mex from a Chinese kitchen: 35Implied authenticity of a franchise called Skillman Wok: -18Suspicion that owner made delivery: -6Fine print that excuses surprise menu/price changes: -3Speed of delivery (minus cold food…

Lost In Translation

One thing you will never see on City of Ate or in Observer reviews–except perhaps in mocking form–is the word ‘foodie.’ In part, this is personal preference. The cute diminutive nickname just sounds so damn childish. But my distaste for the term stems from something decidedly generational (and almost gleefully…

The Cake Cart

When we think of hunting and gathering, we rarely think of cupcakes. Although we’ve evolved past literally chasing our food, we still get a kick out of chasing leads that take us to it. So, when we heard about The Perfect Slice, a roving cupcake vendor, it piqued our sweet…

10 Questions: Nick Badovinus

He’s loquacious, that much is certain. And he’s known for thick, floppy hair.But Badovinus can cook–something he’s proven over and over again as he helped build Consilient Restaurants into a Dallas powerhouse…you know, Cuba Libre, Hibiscus, Fireside Pies. Those guys.A year ago he broke from the corporate mold to plan…

Food For Thought 2.16.09

“I realized I’d be pretty hungry. It would be difficult for a human to survive on a chimpanzee’s diet.” (Scientist Richard Wrangham, who explored the all-important question of whether or not he could live on the same diet as African chimps, as quoted by AP science writer Randolph Schmid.)…

Cheese Porn: A Gushing, Goaty, Espresso Rubdown

OK, so for most folks Valentine’s Day is all chocolates and roses (or Ben and Jerry’s), and we’ve probably done enough this week to push the show-her-you-care-with-oysters agenda.But really, what could be more romantic than a cheese tasting by candlelight? This weekend, see why words like “coagulate,” “curds” and “rennet”…

Chewing The Fat: Never Too Old

With all the recent concern over food safety, reports and stories examining the chain of food distribution and consumption are piling up quickly. While the peanut fiasco has many concerned about processing procedures, many are more than willing to brave treacherous waters. As though British cuisine isn’t dubious enough when…

Burning Question: How Much Do People Know About Their Drink?

So there we were, embedded amongst noisy inebriates from the monied set hanging out at Hully & Mo–and we mean noisy.Foreigners will tell you few groups announce their presence as loudly as American tourists…although those who’ve endured a few moments within shouting distance of Brits on a stag party trip…

Pop…Without The Cork

If you’ve been slacking on your Valentine’s Day preparations and you happen to be in Addison, the folks over at Yo Pop Etc. are happy to help.The place seems an unlikely spot for romantic sweet nothings given its non-descript strip mall location on Midway Road, not to mention the honey…

Over The Makeover

Anyone going through withdrawals over the week-long absence of see-and-be-seen Addison hotspot BlackFinn American Saloon, they can exhale now. Although the place has been closed, it hasn’t gone anywhere for good. It was just having a nice beauty sleep. The remodeled version opens today at 4 p.m. with a brand…

10 Questions: Charlie Papaceno

Yeah, so he worked for the A & E network in New York and made commercials in Dallas for years. Big deal–Papaceno’s father and uncle owned taverns in New York (the state, not the big city), and he helped out when old enough…meaning at the age of 13, maybe 14…