Psycho Greens

Partial transcript from group therapy session, Baylor University Medical Center, March 15, 2006. …screamed in agony. It was like someone, you know, some weed-smoking, tie-dyed vegan took a pair of tweezers and ripped the veins right out of my epidermis. Bibb lettuce: You mean they burn us and breathe the…

Freaky Number

For most of the 19th century the most common ill-luck superstition was 13 at a table: If 13 people sat down together at a table, one would die within a year. So what happens if 13 people sit down at a table in a restaurant called 13? Does the solar…

Doll Parts

When we began researching this week’s topic, a female acquaintance dismissed the mystery of women cavorting over a table of appetizers. “It’s just like a guy’s night out,” she said. But men rarely gather in a large group to sip house Chardonnay, admire each other’s footwear and snap countless shots…

Lanny’s Things

Parking is hard, so this tells you something. Every slot contains a car–Mercedes, BMW, Lexus and so on. A manager in a crisp suit strolls out onto the patio to direct. No valet on weekdays. But it’s OK to park in the dim strip mall across 7th Street, he says…

Wayne’s Broad World

Excerpts from a telephone chat with famed former Mansion maitre d’ Wayne Broadwell on his new position. What’s up? I’m blessed with opportunity…I’m a very fortunate person. I’m the director of operations for Riccardi’s Restaurant in the Quadrangle. What does that mean? I oversee the daily operations, and I’m in…

East Meets Old West

Let’s try out that old Sesame Street game, shall we? One of these things is not like the others; one of these things just doesn’t belong. Did you guess a neighborhood sushi restaurant in Cowtown? Maybe a popular Japanese destination owned by a native of Taiwan who received her culinary…

Give ‘Em the Boot

If life hands you lemons, and we mean really big ones with rinds the size of a grapefruit, make limoncello. For anyone unfamiliar with this old Italian proverb, residents of the area around Sorrento began steeping castoff peels in alcohol centuries ago, while more modest cultures settled for lemonade. The…

What Comes Around

When flooding of near-biblical proportions (Reader’s Digest edition) smote Dallas a couple weeks ago, it washed out the third stop of Wine Around. The unique dinner tour involves chefs from Nana, Iris, Mercy and Taste. Each scheduled event pairs a particular varietal with courses prepared by each restaurant. Good idea,…

Alien Eats

Centuries before it was a place to down lobster shooters or short ribs ringed in heirloom red potato hash, a restaurant was a thing to sip, not a place. A restaurant was a restorative broth, a tiny cup of bouillon or, more likely, a thick meat essence of partially digested…

Positano Putsch

After just a few months in operation, Positano, the Italian restaurant in the spot once occupied by Mediterraneo, has a new owner: chef Antonio Avona, who, with Luciano Cola, created Antonio Ristorante in Addison and La Trattoria Lombardi in Dallas. Will anything change? Not much. “I love the name Positano,”…

Northern Exposure

Several times in the past we’ve alluded to urban provincialism, a mindset that narrows Dallas or other cities to a series of exclusive “neighborhoods.” People living in, say, Lakewood or Uptown rave about the virtues of their domain and refuse to explore anything beyond Interstate 635. Granted, there are a…

Go Flush

After evacuating the kitchen earlier this year over operations and contract disputes with Go Fish owner Mike Hoque, former Go Fish chef Chris Svalesen has already lit his burners. Svalesen has taken over the Inwood Quarter Café–which was stoppered and bolted last month–and plans to open, along with former Go…

Red Sea Scroll

We believe top tens or best-ever rankings act as a kind of intellectual argument in shorthand. To print a list is to engage in a discussion without presenting supporting evidence. Sound a bit far-fetched? Well, the Burning Question crew pondered the topic pretty thoroughly one afternoon while our editor droned…

Off Bloom

McKinney’s culinary culture has had a couple of peculiarities over the recent years. Witness the Prison, circa 2000. The Prison was a New American restaurant fashioned out of the circa 1880 Collin County jail. Frank James, brother of Jesse, booked a room there, as did Raymond Hamilton, a member of…

Mexican Swim

The most significant challenge in restaurateuring has little to do with fortunes big or small, lost or stolen. That comes later, maybe after décor. Café San Miguel has a deep blue marine bar with a porthole housing a metal star. Christmas lights are strung from the ceiling. The barstools look…

Hands-Off Experience

Of course you remember the Seinfeld episode. We mean the episode, when Jerry, George, Kramer and Elaine tested the bounds of self-denial. It resonated because, well, humans…um…not that we, um…Hell, you know what we’re saying. When provided access to things that bring pleasure, the human animal finds it difficult to…

Popularity Contest

Kenny’s Wood Fired Grill is designed to resemble a 1940s Chicago-style chophouse serving New England-style seafood, pumping Uptown’s favorite mind-numbing spirit (Grey Goose) from frozen taps in a suburban location, pouring wine with French fries, hiding elegance behind self-promoting “artwork” and 30-something patrons wiggling through the room in low-rise jeans…

Rocky IV

The as-yet-to-be-seen-but-always-heard Moroccan concept, Tangerine, may again be making noise. If you’ll recall, Rocky Boustani took a massive financial hit when, after starting construction on the old Sipango location, the failure of all parties involved to sign on all dotted lines sent the deal careening into the hands of lawyers…

Oh Boyardee!

Deep Ellum in bright sunlight can be a downright alarming sight. There’s no hint of lurid, neon-streaked discord. Only silent brick structures, pitted by age, and a few lonely cars headed somewhere else. It looks like a small town in Illinois. Sitting down for lunch at Tarantino’s Deep Ellum, my…

Rouge Ripple

Chef Joseph Gutierriz wants more quality Tutto time. That’s why the Tutto founder just sold his tapas restaurant Rouge to a pair of cousins with whom he once worked at the Voltaire/Bamboo Bamboo evolutionary progression before it morphed into a highly stylized bank. “The food will be the same. I…

Bistro World

Perhaps this is not intentional, but Cosmo Rouge Bistro & Lounge feels like The Black Lodge. You remember the Black Lodge? It was tucked in thick Pacific Northwest woods in a dream tucked in Twin Peaks. You remember Twin Peaks? Twin Peaks was the surreal David Lynch murder mystery television…

Up, Out And Down

The opening act was almost comic. The setup: waiting at the sparsely attended bar for a dinner companion to arrive, ordering vodka martini up with a twist, “a martini, please.” The improv take: After searching for a couple minutes the bartender decides they’ve run out of Monopolowa. How ’bout Stoli?…