Pairing Off: Arby’s Roast Beef

Years ago, it was considered–quite loosely–a more sophisticated antidote to the usual fast food fare. Then Arby’s sorta drifted into roadside obscurity, the butt of Seinfeld jokes…until rescued by some clever advertising. Not that the roast beef haven ever disappeared. Taco Bueno and all the other quick service joints overshadowed…

Over At Unfair Park: Colicchio Stays Put

As Victory Park proves less and less victorious in recent months, stories have circulated that Tom Colicchio was considering moving out of the W and plying his Craft elsewhere. To which the Top Chef head judge says: Not a chance. Continue reading on Unfair Park…

Abuelo’s Just Coasting

Think global; act coastal. That’s what Abuelo’s is doing during a limited-time, Mexico-inspired coastal celebration. And although we’re not too close to the coast, unless you count the shores of Lake Lewisville, we can still take part. A few of Abuelo’s celebratory offerings: · Shrimp Mojo de Ajo (angel hair…

10 Questions: Sherry Maddox

Three things stand out instantly: her waifish figure, infectious smile and solid bartending skills. Maddox works at some of the hottest of the city’s hot spots. In the pre-recession heyday, you could find her slinging drinks at Nikita on Sunday nights, for example. Nowadays, she holds court at Mantis–then fills…

Food For Thought 3.04.09

“It’s the muddy flavor of the wild-caught fish, coupled with the animal’s homely appearance, that long ago gave catfish a reputation in many parts of the country as a trash fish.” (Hunter Lewis, writing in the March issue of Saveur magazine, in what ends up as praise for bland farm-raised…

Dude Food: Melios Brothers Char Bar

Melios Brothers’ Char Bar2026 Greenville Ave(214) 826-8800Dude Factor: 8, or Super Mario Brothers on a scale of 1 (George and Jeb Bush) to 10 (Frank and Jesse James)Regretfully, I had to knock a point off this joint right from the start for the misleading name. I was finally getting my…

Running On Pizza

Many pizza joints deliver, but how many bring the whole oven along for the ride?That’s right, not just a warming bag, but a wood-burning pizza oven on wheels. Jay Jerrier (of Campania Pizza) is now officially on the go with Il Cane Rosso, a mobile oven. The former backyard cook…

10 Questions: Clay Bergus

If you’ve been in Perry’s, you know him. For seven years, since the steak and upscale southern comfort restaurant opened, Bergus has served as general manager.New apartment buildings sprung up nearby. Other places opened and closed. But Perry’s keeps plugging along, unchanged…except for an upcoming name change imposed when a…

Food For Thought 3.03.09

“We did not know that they didn’t have a state license for their processing facility. We were not aware that the state was not aware they were there.” (Greg Ingham, Plainview city manager, on the Peanut Corporation of America plant closure following a salmonella outbreak. The state of Texas has…

Grapes Of Wrath

Scanning Leslie Brenner’s introduction last week, I wondered first if such a manifesto (outlining the new Dallas Morning News critic’s rules of engagement) was truly necessary. Then again, food writers at the daily take some rather unfair jabs on occasion from those compelled to flail away without, to paraphrase a…

How ‘Bout Them Knockers: Spiatzas Pizzeria

Spiatzas Pizzeria2001 N. Lamar214-999-0066 Promised delivery time: 25 minutesActual delivery time: 30 minutesThe ScoreIt’s a family-owned business: 40 Took 30 minutes instead of 25 to deliver: -5 A laid back attitude despite being the only remaining business in West End Marketplace: 50 A pizzeria with no pesto sauce: -20 No…

Short Orders: J’s Breakfast & Burgers

J’s Breakfast & Burgers14925 Midway, Addison972-239-7614Call J’s a monument to the open-all-night greasy spoons of two-lane highway fame. It’s one of the few such places remaining in built up Dallas, where most people shun walls pocked by age, ceilings painted by gristle, grills blackened from years of abuse and yellowing…

Happy Independence Day, Buckaroos

Earlier this year, Cowboy Chow rolled out its recession menu. Today, prices plummet even lower in honor of Texas Independence Day. Yup, it has been 173 years since the Lone Star state broke from Mexico and declared itself a republic. So Cowboy Chow is offering tacos for $1.73 each. Chef…

10 Questions: Courtney Reum

He is the man behind VeeV, the world’s first Acai spirit, a product just hitting the Dallas market.While one can argue the health benefits of acai berries after they’ve been distilled into alcohol and bottled, Reum’s marketing skill goes without question. They’ve developed a sustainable farming program, use wind energy…

Food For Thought 3.02.09

“He says, ‘There’s a drunk club, I forget what it’s called, but you have to like be really drunk to get in, I don’t know if they’d let you in, but you could ask them for tips.'” (Rosie O’Donnell, explaining to Tyra Banks how her 13-year-old son convinced her to…

Chewing the Fat: Or Not Chewing The Fat–Same Thing Either Way

Books about dieting and weight loss. Geez, the shelves are packed full of some expert’s latest “scientific” finding, or maybe a “re-discovery” of what humans are supposed to eat in the wild (nuts, berries and kuchikami at parties). The one thing all the books share in common is a claim…

Burning Question: Why Don’t Women Drink Whiskey?

A bartender told us years ago that the sexiest thing a woman can do in a bar is to order good scotch and sip it neat.Hmm…guess we’re not the only ones a little past our prime.We seem to recall hearing this from a staff member at the old Whisky Bar–a…

Review and Gallery: Cibus

In this week’s review, Dave takes on Cibus, Alberto Lombardi’s cozy Italian spot in Northpark.For more shots of the restaurant, its cooking staff, its meat and its gelato, you can salivate over photographer Sara Kerens’ work in our slideshow here…

Girl Drink Drunk: The Porch

Special Friday EditionDuring birthday season, I had the pleasure of celebrating one of our resident girl drinker’s special day at Consilient Restaurant’s neighborhood-gourmet (just made that up, but now that I think about it, it’s my new favorite genre of bites) eatery, The Porch. First, let me explain that while the…

Grounded In Italy

Nancy Krabill, owner of Snider Plaza’s gourmet shop Flavors From Afar, took off for Italy late last fall. And what she brought back from Trieste was much better than a silly t-shirt…and we consider any tee from Italy that doesn’t say “Juventus” a waste. But that’s an aside. Krabill returned…

10 Questions: Megan Henderson

An era ends today as Megan Henderson waves goodbye to Fox 4’s Good Day–and to Dallas.The California native joined the popular morning show in August of 2003, after stints in Wichita Falls (of all places) and Salt Lake City. As the perfect foil for stolid veteran Tim Ryan, she helped…

Food For Thought 2.27.09

“The enemy is not so much ethnic food, but food of poor quality. A bad Tuscan trattoria does more damage than a kebab shop.” (Roberto Burdese, president of Slow Food, responding to the Italian town of Lucca–near Florence–and its effort to ban anything but native restaurants within city limits. No…