Question Of The Week: How Do You Define ‘Fine Dining’?

Most people would label Aurora a fine dining restaurant. But what about a place like Suze? Or Bob’s? The former is a small, neighborhood joint and the latter a massive steakhouse. So can we refer to a tiny, unpretentious joint serving great food as fine dining? Should we label all…

And The Winner Is…

An interesting week, all in all–and one in which we were reminded, once again, what makes press releases so damn fascinating.But first for the runner up. We like this one because, no matter how one chooses to interpret it, the comment sends shivers up the adductor magnus: “Alien Secretions lead…

Football Follies

There are several reasons why 47 year-old food writers should never line up against a bunch of former college athletes at the start of another minor league football season. To begin with, there’s the left medial collateral ligament, that thing called the adductor magnus, a bone on bone sensation where…

The Situation Rooms

Is the difference between a liberal and conservative drinking group as wide as the chasm between their political views? You decide. A group of self-proclaimed liberals met at the Libertine Bar in Lower Greenville on May 13 for the third organized “Drinking Liberally” soiree in as many months. This is…

Handle The Proof: Del Maguey Mezcal

Mention a bout with mezcal and at least one of your acquaintances will fire back with the “did you eat the worm” question.But insect larvae added to bottles of mezcal are a relatively recent marketing gimmick rather than some age-old tradition–an attempt to counter the spell its cousin, tequila, holds…

RA Sushi Donates Some Proceeds To St. Jude Next Week

I don’t know what you been told / It ain’t the butterfly, it’s the tootsee roll –69 BoyzThe 69 Boyz are correct, as usual. It ain’t the butterfly–RA Sushi doesn’t even list the shiba, takuan and cucumber roll on its menu–but rather the Tootsy Maki–or Tootsie Roll–a few other items…

10 Questions: David Holben of Del Frisco’s

Believe it or not, the executive chef for Del Frisco’s trained as a saucier in France, where he worked for Michelin three-star restaurants.When he came to Dallas in the mid-80s, he opened The Riviera, for almost a decade one of the city’s premier restaurants. After that, he ran the kitchen…

Food For Thought 5.22.09

“No more RICE!” (U.S. Marine corporal Harold Thomas as Army aircraft began dropping rations and other supplies to men held at the POW camp in Niigata, Japan, in late August, 1945. Captured in Peking–now Beijing–China on the day Japan bombed Pearl Harbor, Thomas had been a prisoner of the Japanese…

Review and Gallery: Agave Tex-Mex

Our review in this week’s paper is a look at Agave Tex-Mex, where Dave muses on Arizona State’s admissions policies, crumpled Kias and topless models — on the way to getting into the food.For a more in-depth look around the restaurant, be sure and check out the photos by Eli…

Girl Drink Drunk: Dave & Buster’s

This edition of Girl Drink Drunk will be presented in the form of a letter. If you read it fully, you will receive 42 tickets, which somehow are worth 84 tickets and may or may not be redeemable at the prize counter.***Dear Dave and Buster,First of all, I really hope…

Short Orders: Daddy Jack’s

Daddy Jack’s 1916 Greenville Ave. 214-826-4910 If you could travel back in time to, say, New England, Baltimore, or even the bayous of Louisiana in the 1950s, you’d expect to find dozens of places like this. The now venerable seafood shanty on lower Greenville has it all: doo-wop bopping from…

Veggie Girl: Bangkok City

For me, comfort food doesn’t necessarily mean junk food. In fact, it almost never means junk food (with the notable exception of homemade cookies, which to me don’t count as junk), but rather healthy food, easily gotten. This is precisely why my favorite haunts include Khalachandji’s and Spiral Diner. But…

Appetite For Instruction: Mai Tai

Demonstrated by A.J. Iammarino of Trader Vic’s Dallas Guess what? Marilyn Manson is now shilling absinthe. Yep, as if Cabo Wabo and Trump Vodka weren’t enough, now everyone’s favorite goth poster boy is in bed with the naughty green fairy. We’ll file it somewhere between the Danny DeVito Limoncello and…

Cork Offers Wine Course Tonight

And when you told me your merlot need more grapes / I said, ‘Honey, you never had wine before’ / And if you did, that’s not how you act at all / And no, that’s not how we rock in Theodore. –Ghostface Killah, “Tooken Back”If only Ghostface lived in Dallas…

10 Questions: Scott Gottlich of Bijoux

He and his wife, Gina, have raked in much deserved stars and awards and verbal fanfare since they opened Bijoux. The Dallas native began his career in California, however. Gottlich headed west after graduating from Johnson and Wales to work in a French restaurant. From there, it was off to New…

Food For Thought 5.21.09

“Mrs. Butterworth has always had a first name, but it’s been passed down over the years to various managers, and none of the adults around here thought to use it until an employee’s son asked what it was.” (Allison Meyer, associate brand manager for Pinnacle Foods Group, announcing a contest…

Burguesa Burger: Doing an America Fave the Mexican way

On Cinco de Mayo, while you were taking tequila shots off of God knows who’s God knows where, Burguesa Burger was opening its ventanas to the public for the first time. Just a little orange shack next door to Sonny Bryan’s and down the street from the Salvation Army on…

Agave Tex-Mex: Good, Bad and Ugly

There will be good Tex-Mex and rumors of good Tex-Mex. Mostly rumors, though—at least in the Dallas area. It’s a sad fact: apart from some fabled taquerias and a few notable exceptions, Tex-Mex restaurants in this part of the world survive on mediocre cooking and the forbearance of diners. They…

Pairing Off: 7-Eleven Nachos

I lost a lot of respect for Sarah, our editorial assistant. Just a little while ago she admitted an affinity–well, more than an affinity, an absolute love–for 7-Eleven’s nachos.While I respect that the convenience store provides nachos, with an all-you-can-pile-on policy for condiments and all-you-can-pump yellow cheese-resembling goo, only the…

On The Range: Chiles Rellenos

Poblano peppers or Anaheim? When making chiles rellenos, the chef must first consider which pepper might better serve his or her vision of the completed dish. Indeed, they are similar and both are widely used, but tasting reveals subtle but noticeable differences. The leaner Anaheim pepper is actually American in…

La Calle Doce Re-Opening. Leppert To Attend, Scout Out Hotel Possibilities

La Calle Doce’s Lakewood location will finally reopen its doors today–officially–after the August fire that shut down the beloved Mexican seafood restaurant. To help celebrate the restaurant’s Grand Re-Opening, Mayor Tom Leppert, representatives from the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce and live mariachi bands (will they never cease?) will be on…

10 Questions: Toby Bittenbender

There are A-list bartenders working the hot clubs. But you know something? They all had to start somewhere.Bittenbender is new to bartending. The Dallas native spent years playing guitar in a band, touring from venue to venue…until fatherhood caused him to rethink priorities. So he took a job as a…