Salum: Paring Down Portions But Not Flavor at a Dining Gem

Some months ago, Abraham Salum faced a couple of moderately serious problems. Business slipped, first of all, as the recession began to squeeze diners—an issue that he might deal with to some extent if he addressed the second concern. “Some people said they would love to come in on Mondays…

First (Belated) Look: Legacy Books

Okay, so it opened in November. Our bad. As of last week, we still hadn’t explored Legacy Books in Plano, an independent bookstore with a unique culinary program. But when the 300th person told us we had to go (and that person just happened to be a chef), we finally…

Pairing Off: Long John Silver’s

Each week, Pairing Off attempts to find just the right bottle of wine to go with ordinary food.I’ve commented already about the quick-service seafood chain’s diabolical attempt to add a few years to my life, at least on paper. But the store I visited for this week’s wine pairing also…

Old Before My Time

So I was at Long John Silver’s–for a story–waiting for my fried sampler to appear. I glanced at the bill and saw this: “10% SENIOR DISC.”But…but…um…Punk kids who work in fast food these days, 47 is not old. Sure there’s a little gray around the temples. That’s ’cause my office…

Mi Oh Mundo

We’ve had technical issues on City of Ate all morning (recently solved), so Robert Wilonsky was kind enough to run news of Carolina Galvan-formerly Rodriguez’s Taco Mundo over at Unfair Park. Read all about it here…

On The Range: Beans

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items. “When you have four hundred pounds of beans in the house, you need have no fear of starvation. Other things, delicacies such as sugar, tomatoes, peppers, coffee, fish or meat, may come sometimes miraculously,…

Dude Food: Hook Line & Sinker

Each week the Dude Food guys assess the ‘masculinity’ of Dallas area dives. The more fried meat and junk on the walls, the better the rating…Hook Line & Sinker3103 Lemmon Ave.214-965-0707Dude Factor: 10, or anyone on Deadliest Catch, on a scale of 1, Steve Irwin, to 10.Between reading John Graves’…

Chocolate Confidential

When one of the top pastry chefs in town hands you a chocolate bar and says she’s in love, you listen. In fact, I believe Rhonda Ruckman’s exact words about the Patric bar she gave to me yesterday were, “As far as Madagascar chocolate goes, this kicks Valrhona’s ass.” Coming…

A Green State (& Allen)

Uptown Restaurant GM Is Out To Save The Planet, As Much As Possible When Angela Birt signed on as general manager for State & Allen Lounge, she saw waste everywhere.Not extraordinary amounts of it, mind you–just the usual run on materials every restaurant goes through. “We use so much as…

Veggie Girl: York St.

Veggie Girl finds vegan and vegetarian options at Dallas establishments of all kinds. The column appears Tuesdays and Thursdays. I love a good storm. So when I woke up last Thursday to howling winds and sheets of furious rain, I resisted the urge to crawl back into bed and instead…

News(letter) Makers

You know, it’s easy to post complimentary copy about Hot off the Grill, our weekly email newsletter–and not just because the marketing department hired former Blackwater guards to follow us around until we post said complimentary copy, either. We just like the idea of one quick memo filling us in…

Why Eat At The Bar?

I’ve never quite understood why some people choose to eat dinner at the bar.Not talking about finger foods here, but full meals: steak, burgers, burritos or whatever, depending on the restaurant. Yeah, I understand the feeling of self-consciousness suffered by guests sitting alone in a crowded dining room. Is it…

Short Orders: Cock & Bull

Cock & Bull6330 Gaston214-841-9111I missed out on about three years of American culture (i.e., reality television or programs hosted by former reality “stars”), so the folks at Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives may have featured the little Lakewood institution. If not, it merely adds to my conviction that the show is…

Celebrity Spotting

Over at Unfair Park, Robert “Alan Peppard” Wilonsky spots David Byrne out on the town. Celebs have to eat and drink sometime. And when they do…..

How ‘Bout Them Knockers: Amico’s Pizza & Pasta

Each week in ‘Knockers’ we order from a different delivery restaurant, assessing their efficiency and keeping a running score.Amico’s Pizza & Pasta4032 Cedar Springs214-520-1331Promised delivery time: None stated, and I didn’t think to ask.Actual delivery time: 29:35 Phone friendliness: 20Not stating order total or ETA on phone: -15Delivery time well…

Sloppy Seconds: As Seen On TV

Having handily dispatched the written word, television’s having its way with dining now, too — at least, that’s the idea you get after reading our last week on City of Ate. Not good news for those of us who write about food.From an Oxygen Network TV crew getting in our…

The 10 Most Overrated Dallas Restaurants

No matter where, when or what topic, a few readers always seem to interpret ‘overrated’ as ‘gut-wrenchingly bad.’ But our list of the 10 most overrated restaurants in Dallas includes several we heartily recommend to visitors. And not a single one of them–with maybe one or two exceptions–would be considered…

Question Of The Week: Why Order Pasta At A Restaurant?

Just think about simple pasta dishes here. The food cost for a restaurant making pasta is negligible, but they charge $15 or so for the finished product. Unless you’re after one of the more elaborate shapes, pasta is easy to make at home. If the restaurant uses dried pasta, it’s…

Handle The Proof: Maker’s Mark Bourbon

Handle The Proof is our weekly exploration of spirits, cocktails and the culture of fine drinking. Despite the inroads of craft and single barrel brands, bourbon still suffers from somewhat of an image problem. Once when I ordered a round of Booker’s in some Uptown bar, for example, a woman…

Review and Gallery: Central 214

In this week’s paper, things get real as Dave drops some Wilfred Owen on a Central 214 waitress — but after unleashing phrases like “naughy kitchen” and “quest for world culinary domination,” chef Blythe Beck may get the best lines.Check out more shots from the restaurant, including her chicken-fried Kobe…

Critic Under Water

Just got off the phone with Arnold Jones, food critic and lifestyles editor for the Dallas Voice. As reported today by the Dallas Morning News, Jones’ car drowned the other night as he tried to make his way through downed trees to his M streets home.”It’s kinda funny being the…