Short Orders: The Grape

The Grape2808 Greenville Ave.214-828-1981If not for The Grape, Dallas would have a small empty space in its culinary soul.Yeah, we’d have some cool wine bars with great kitchens–Dali comes to mind. We would even have a compliment of venues with old world charm, however contrived. But nothing else could match…

Best Or Worst–But Why?

Many, many years ago an acquaintance of mine recommended the Eddie Murphy disaster Best Defense. Not sure why–even Murphy dismissed (or ‘dissed,’ as we said back then) the flick publicly. But this friend considered it a decent movie.Personal taste in film can vary, of course. But we encounter the same…

10 Questions: Tracey Maddox

She pours beers at Frisco’s bit of Ireland, otherwise known as Lochrann’s. That, of course, means pint after pint (well, not pint–it’s the U.S.–but you get the point) of Guinness, that time-consuming, two-stage pour. Fortunately, Lochrann’s owner worked for the famous Irish brewery for 15 years. So Maddox and her…

Food For Thought 4.20.09

“Enjoy our smoke free dining.” (On marquee outside Cape Buffalo. The sports bar/pool hall is located on Addison Road, but on that narrow spit that belongs to Dallas. So management not only puts a positive spin on the smoking ban, but educates those who wish to light up about the…

Question Of The Week

Who is the best ‘unknown’ chef in Dallas?Some definition: By unknown we mean a chef who receives very little media attention. The chef’s restaurant may be well known, mind you, but someone else gets all the press. An example might be Bartolino Cocuzza of Amici in Carrollton. So obviously by…

And The Winner Is…

“2500 lbs of chili and less than 600 beers? Somebody was way out of whack on the beer to chili ratio.”A comment left by “Brent D.” in response to this week’s On The Range piece, which touched on the lowdown bit of bribery used to ensure that chili became the…

Handle The Proof: Fundador

Sometime in our youth, however well spent, we picked up on the existence of Cognac. Maybe it was from ads in Sports Illustrated, or something–it’s not like anyone really remembers when or in what context; the awareness just happened. Maybe in our 20s we learned about Armagnac. But this information…

10 Questions: Rocky Tassioni

On Sunday, April 19, the Dallas Farmer’s Market Friends will host a roundtable discussion of the “buying local” concept and its challenges.Tassioni knows these all too well. Since 1997, he and his wife have operated a hydroponic farm (Tassione Farm) near Stephenville, growing specialty greens and herbs. They deliver to…

Food For Thought 4.17.09

“We got blindsided by two idiots with a video camera and an awful idea. Even people who’ve been with us as loyal customers for 10, 15, 20 years, people are second-guessing their relationship with Domino’s, and that’s not fair.” (Tim McIntyre, spokesman for the pizza chain, responding to an incident…

Short Orders: Angelo & Vito’s

Angelo & Vito’s4520 Frankford972-381-1001The reason places like Little Caesar’s and Domino’s thrive is a commitment to ‘just good enough’ style pizza.Such operations can easily bake a pale yet tolerable crust, spread on some simplistic sauce and let the toppings take care of the rest. After two pizzas at Angelo &…

10 Questions: Meghann O’Leary

After graduating from SMU with a degree in Markets and Culture, Meghann O’Leary went to work for a local law firm. Her sister, Erin, headed to New York, degree in Fine Arts in hand, to pursue a dance career.But they had always baked cookies.So two years ago, Erin began selling…

Food For Thought 4.16.09

“Quickly, bring me a beaker of wine, so that I may wet my mind and say something clever.” (From Aristophanes’ The Knights. Yes, he died in 385 BCE, but his wisdom lives on. Besides, it’s almost Friday. Time to start thinking about alcohol-fueled pontification.)…

Cava Serves Down-Home Comfort Food with a Latin Flair

If your oral surgeon misses by the tiniest fraction, that foolproof replacement tooth could end up cracking your mandible. Did you know that? I didn’t either until I overheard what amounted to a dissertation on modern dentistry practices, complete with pain thresholds and gore and all the other stuff you…

Pairing Off: Spam

The classic 1949 film Battleground ranks as one of the best not only because Ricardo Montalban (or his character, anyway) freezes to death. There’s also a scene appropriate to this week’s Pairing Off.It lasts just a few seconds, but says everything one needs to know about America’s relationship with Spam…

10 Questions: Samir Dhurandhar

Nick & Sam’s celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Ten years of prime beef, pan-seared foie gras and such, all cooked under the direction of an Indian chef.Dhurandhar has been cooking pretty much all his life. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and apprenticed in New York before…

Food For Thought 4.15.09

“Are the people who seek to restrict the use of tobacco everywhere–and for everyone–the same people who seek to promote the use of marijuana?” (Leonard Welsh of Plano, as quoted by the Dallas Morning News. Not sure if they are the same people, but the generation responsible for such restrictions–as…

What’s In The News(letter)?

Hot off the Grill compiles, on one handy electronic page, the city’s more interesting culinary events, specials, openings and closings…and a few hidden treasures. In the current issue: Amongst other news tidbits, learn about the new Mexico City-style taqueria–El Tazoncito–on Illinois. The owner had a hand in developing the Taco Diner…

10 Questions: Jim Schutze

Our own investigative curmudgeon, legendary political writer and sometime author of crime narratives sure likes to stir the pot.He’s been called a liar by targets of his reporting, touched off verbal feuds amongst elected, drawn the wrath of…well, a lot of people. Along the way, he’s won national awards for…

Food For Thought 4.14.09

“Stevia is supposed to offer a non-dangerous natural alternative to sugar, high-fructose corn syrup and artificial sweeteners, and that’s why it’s supposed to do well. It doesn’t have the calorie punch of sugar; it doesn’t have the bad image of HFCS.” (Marcia Mogelonsky, senior research analyst with Chicago-based Mintel International,…

Short Orders: Fuel City

Fuel City801 S. Industrial Blvd.214-426-0011The filling stations/taco stand has quite a following.In the wee hours of just about any weekend, people spill from bars and somehow find themselves here–uncomfortably close to Lew Sterrett, swaying in long lines, awaiting a little hangover prevention. In the daylight, the station becomes a stop…

Drink, If You Brought ‘Em

Strictly BYOB places bother me.Yes, I know about the pernicious restaurant mark ups. In general, management will triple the price of lower cost wines and double the more expensive labels. They often tack on rather impressive corkage fees for those who insist on carting in a bottle, as well. Bring…

10 Questions: Laura Young

As general manager of Maximo, she sets the tone. Her touch lends a sense of calm beauty and easy elegance–the stuff that helps make certain guests have a positive experience. Young learned to handle the front of a house from one of the best, handling maitre d’ chores for Tristan…