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Since opening in the Shops of Highland Park this September, Madrina has confidently elbowed its way onto most every “hot new” restaurant list. Why? Part of the draw has to be chef Julio Peraza’s French-inspired Mexican cuisine, which has been pared down to the catchy term “French-Mex.”
It’s an intriguing concept. How does French-Mex work, exactly? Traditional French bouillabaisse gets a kick of adobo broth. An asparagus salad takes on notes of ancho pepper. OK, it’s starting to make sense, but what does this mean for dessert?
It means violet churros. In a delectable fusion of cultures, the churro, known to many as a casual “street eat,” is elevated. The fried pastry’s perfectly crisp, star-shaped exterior is dusted with crushed, candied violets, imparting a subtle flavor. Dip this into the accompanying chipotle-spiced cocoa and French-Mex will confuse you no more.
Madrina, 4216 Oak Lawn Ave.
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